PVC is the abbreviation of polyvinyl chloride. It is a type of plastic polymer and is the world’s third-most widely produced synthetic plastic polymer.

There are two forms of PVC – rigid and flexible. It is used in pipes and applications such as doors and windows. But also very commonly used to cover edges in all types of furniture related applications.

Please visit our website for more information on this topic.

What is edge banding?

Edge banding creates a durable and contrasting finish for all the decorative surfaces using a narrow strip of material. That helps in covering the exposed sides of the materials. It gives aesthetically pleasing trim edges and the appearance of reliable or more valuable material.

On similar lines, PVC edge banding is made of vacuum molding, mixing, calendering, and other processes. A few of the types include PVC edge bands, glued edge bands, and 3D edge bands. Most PVC edgebanding is applied automatically with machines, but it is also easy to apply manually with several options.

What is edge banding?

• Step 1: Measure and cut the PVC edge banding as per the requirement.
• Step 2: Apply the contact cement to PVC edge banding and the material with a brush or spray contact cement . Avoid overdoing it. Another option is 2 sided PSA tape which can be stuck to either surface
• Step 3: Let the contact cement dry to touch. Then, bond the material and PVC edge banding. The 2 sided PSA tape is peel off of the roll and applied to either surface.
• Step 4: Remove the excess PVC edgebanding using a utility knife, router or edgebanding trimmer.
• Step 5: You can use the acetone to remove the excess contact cement. Make sure it is not harming the semi-gloss finish. Otherwise, it may put a whitish layer on the PVC, making you replace the whole edge.

Before you start with the process of PVC edge banding, make sure you have left a good amount of room for any alterations to be made later.

Tips while Installing Edge Banding

• Use a masking tape to cover the face of the board and protect it from overspray or excess from brush.
• Avoid using sandpaper to finish installing. It is preferable to use a fine metal file.
• To complete the flushing process, use a nick-less sharp chisel on a laminated or melamine board.
• And use mineral turps to remove any extraneous adhesive. Acetone works also.

There is a slight difference between installing PVC Edge Banding and the rest. Here are a few points that will help you make your decision easier.

• PVC edge banding provides a superior appearance to the edge of furniture or shelving.
• PVC edgebanding also comes with hot melt adhesive in limited colors that will not tolerate direct heat from and iron.
• They are cheaper than any other plastic and more resistant to solvent and UV lights.
• PVCs are durable and scratch resistance. So, it wouldn’t cause you a fortune if it is not handled correctly during its installation.
• It offers a wide range of colors, textures, and finishes. Thus, you can have customized PVC installed.
• PVCs are impermeable and flexible. Hence, they are easy to cut and apply.
• Dirty cut edges, splintering, or tearing are generally elimanted.
• It makes use of a minimum glue line for maximum adhesion since it has a concave back surface.

Check out our store for exclusive veneer collection or to order veneer online. Alternatively, you can also reach us at steve@jsowoodproducts.com or call us at 502-425-2541 for any queries!

Application of PVC Edgebanding

An edgebander is the method of choice, but here are some alternative suggestions as well. September 5, 2006

Question
We have made tops either with self-edge, T-Moulding, or wood. What is the best way to install 2mm PVC edgebanding? Does contact cement work, or do I need to use a hot glue process? How tight a radius can I get with 2mm PVC?

Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor E:
I guess the safest answer is another question: "Is there some method other than an edgebander?" I can't imagine doing it otherwise and I doubt a hot air would do 2mm very well.

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Lituo.

Additional reading:
10 Things to Consider When Buying Ceramic Binder Materials
UHMWPE fender face pads marine boards
UHMW vs. Nylon
Triple tree fork tube nylon sleeve bushings.
Materials to use for a low friction cable-pull
From contributor R:
Preferred solution would be to use an edgebander if available. Otherwise, acceptable method would be to use spray-on contact adhesive on both board edges and rear of PVC edge. Mask face of board with masking tape and use scrap board cuttings to prevent overspray.
Activated Carbon Filters 101
4 Tips to Select Durable Anti-Impact Flooring Materials

Preferred solution would be to use an edgebander if available. Otherwise, acceptable method would be to use spray-on contact adhesive on both board edges and rear of PVC edge. Mask face of board with masking tape and use scrap board cuttings to prevent overspray.

Brushing on the adhesive can be done, but not so reliable. If you have to, then use multiple coats of adhesive. Finishing of edge can be simplified by use of laminate trimmer with either a roller bearing straight bit or suitable roll over round bit, say 2mm. Use fine metal file rather than sandpaper to complete the finishing. On a melamine finished or laminated board, a sharp chisel with no nicks can be use to complete the flushing process. 2mm edging can be bent into quite tight corners, external or internal, and the use of a hot air gun at moderate heat can be used to pre-bend the edging into tighter corners. Trial and error with small scraps is always recommended.

Do not use thinners, under any circumstance, to remove any surplus adhesive. Use mineral turps, as this will not damage the PVC.

From contributor K:

No, there is only one way two apply 2mil and that is via an edgebander (pre-melt only, no hot air). Contact cement is not a reasonable solution... Trust me, I've tried.

No, there is only one way two apply 2mil and that is via an edgebander (pre-melt only, no hot air). Contact cement is not a reasonable solution... Trust me, I've tried.

Also, solvent (acetone) does not damage PVC. How else would you get the glue off edgebanded parts? Lacquer thinner works fine, too.

From contributor R:
I agree that the use of an edge bander is the first choice, but contributor K appears to have had an unfortunate experience with spray-on contact adhesive. I find this puzzling, as I have used this method for more years than I care to admit and it is the only reliable alternative when it comes to adhering edging to curved tops or components with internal corners that no edge bander could cope with. Nor is an edge bander of any use when it comes to alterations or repairs to edging already built into a piece of partially completed work.

I agree that the use of an edge bander is the first choice, but contributor K appears to have had an unfortunate experience with spray-on contact adhesive. I find this puzzling, as I have used this method for more years than I care to admit and it is the only reliable alternative when it comes to adhering edging to curved tops or components with internal corners that no edge bander could cope with. Nor is an edge bander of any use when it comes to alterations or repairs to edging already built into a piece of partially completed work.

In regard to the use of acetone to clean surplus adhesives, I will have to bow to contributor K's experience, as I have never used acetone for this purpose. I have always found the use of mineral turps to be the preferred option, as lacquer thinners most definitely act as a solvent on the PVC as well as softening the contact adhesive. This alters the surface of the PVC, destroying the semi-gloss finish and on darker colours can leave a ghostlike whitish appearance that would normally be cause for replacement of that edge.

From contributor K:
I sometimes have to use contact cement for PVC (rarely) because of the reasons you mentioned of radius corners. However, I hate it because the bond just is nothing near hot melt. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do. And I never had a problem with lacquer thinner marring, but I will trust you on that, because I only use it when I run out of solvent. I would still not recommend using contact cement on PVC, based on my experience, unless it is a must. Sounds like you need an edgebander in a bad way.

I sometimes have to use contact cement for PVC (rarely) because of the reasons you mentioned of radius corners. However, I hate it because the bond just is nothing near hot melt. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do. And I never had a problem with lacquer thinner marring, but I will trust you on that, because I only use it when I run out of solvent. I would still not recommend using contact cement on PVC, based on my experience, unless it is a must. Sounds like you need an edgebander in a bad way.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Conductive pvc edge banding.