Different Types of Self Levelers Compounds

The different types of self-leveling compounds include cement-based, gypsum-based, epoxy-based, polyurethane-based, and hybrid formulations.  Regarding preparing a smooth, level subfloor for your flooring project, self-leveling compounds can be a game-changer. These specialized products are designed to flow, spread, and level out uneven surfaces, creating a consistently flat foundation for your final flooring installation.

Link to KDOCEL

As a homeowner or contractor, you&#;ll find a range of self-leveling compounds on the market, each with its unique properties and intended applications. 

Table of Contents

What are the Different Types of Self Levelers Compounds

The different types of self-leveling compounds include cement-based, gypsum-based, epoxy-based, polyurethane-based, and hybrid formulations. 

1. Cement-Based Self-Leveling Compounds

Cement-based self-levelers are a type of self-leveling compound that are known for their durability, versatility, and cost-effectiveness.

These products are typically composed of a combination of cement, sand, and various additives that give them their unique properties. The cement base provides strength and stability, while the sand and additives help to enhance the flow, workability, and overall performance of the self-leveler.

Some key characteristics of cement-based self-levelers include:

Durability: The cement-based formulation makes these self-levelers highly durable and resistant to wear and tear, making them suitable for a wide range of applications, including residential and light commercial settings.

Versatility: Cement-based self-levelers can be used on a variety of subfloor types, including concrete, wood, and even existing floor coverings, making them a flexible choice for many projects.

Cost-Effectiveness: Compared to some other types of self-leveling compounds, cement-based products are generally more cost-effective, making them a popular choice for budget-conscious projects.

Easy Application: Cement-based self-levelers are known for their good flow and workability, allowing for easy application and a smooth, level finish.

Due to these attributes, cement-based self-levelers are often the go-to choice for many residential and light commercial flooring projects, where a durable, cost-effective, and versatile self-leveling solution is required.

2. Gypsum-based self-levelers  

Gypsum-based self-levelers are a type of self-leveling compound that are primarily composed of gypsum rather than cement. These products offer a few key advantages over their cement-based counterparts. Firstly, they are known for providing a smoother, more uniform finish to the subfloor compared to cement-based formulations. This can be beneficial in achieving a seamless, high-end look, particularly in interior, low-traffic applications such as residential bedrooms or office spaces where a pristine subfloor finish is the primary goal. 

Also, gypsum-based self-levelers typically have quicker drying times than cement-based options, allowing for faster project completion. This faster drying time is another factor that makes gypsum-based self-levelers better suited for interior, light-duty environments where the subfloor needs to be ready for finishing quickly.

While gypsum-based self-levelers may not offer the same level of durability and versatility as cement-based products, they excel in providing a refined, high-quality subfloor surface in the right applications. Contractors and homeowners should carefully consider the specific needs of their project when deciding between gypsum-based or cement-based self-leveling compounds to ensure the best possible outcome.

3. Epoxy-based self-levelers

Epoxy-based self-levelers are a type of self-leveling compound that are formulated with epoxy resins as their primary binding agent. These products are known for their exceptional performance characteristics, making them well-suited for commercial and industrial applications.

The epoxy-based composition of these self-levelers offers exceptional chemical resistance, allowing them to withstand exposure to a wide range of chemicals, oils, and other potentially damaging substances. This makes them an ideal choice for environments where the subfloor may be subject to spills or exposure to harsh chemicals, such as in manufacturing facilities, warehouses, or commercial kitchens.

In addition to their chemical resistance, epoxy-based self-levelers also provide a high degree of durability and wear resistance. They can withstand heavy foot traffic, the movement of equipment, and other types of heavy-duty use without compromising the integrity of the subfloor. This makes them a popular choice for commercial and industrial settings where the flooring needs to be able to stand up to demanding conditions.

Another benefit of epoxy-based self-levelers is their moisture resistance. These products can be used in damp or humid environments without the risk of degradation or damage, making them a versatile option for a variety of project types.

4. Polyurethane-based self-levelers

Polyurethane-based self-levelers are a type of self-leveling compound that utilizes polyurethane as the primary binder. Unlike other self-leveler types, polyurethane-based formulations offer added flexibility, allowing the material to better accommodate minor subfloor movement or substrate deflection without cracking or delaminating. 

These self-levelers exhibit a higher degree of moisture tolerance compared to some other formulations, making them a smart choice for damp environments or areas prone to moisture exposure. Polyurethane-based self-levelers&#; flexible and moisture-resistant properties allow them to be used in a wider range of applications, including residential, commercial, and even some industrial settings. 

This adaptability makes them a valuable option for projects where a more forgiving, impact-resistant, and moisture-tolerant subfloor surface is required, such as in areas with potential for subfloor movement, damp conditions, or the possibility of heavy impacts on the flooring.

5. Hybrid self-levelers

Hybrid self-levelers are a type of self-leveling compound that combines two or more different binder technologies to create a product that leverages the strengths of multiple formulations. The goal of hybrid self-levelers is to provide a more versatile and high-performing solution compared to traditional single-binder self-levelers. 

The key advantage of hybrid self-levelers is their ability to deliver a tailored set of performance characteristics that may not be achievable through a single-binder approach. This allows contractors and specifiers to select a self-leveling compound optimized for the specific demands of the project at hand. As the self-leveler market continues to evolve, hybrid formulations are becoming increasingly common, allowing for innovative solutions that combine the best attributes of multiple binder technologies.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Self-Leveling Compound

When choosing a self-leveling compound for a flooring project, you should consider substrate conditions, traffic levels, thickness requirements, chemical exposure, and curing time.

1. Substrate Conditions: The condition and composition of the existing subfloor or substrate are critical considerations. Self-leveling compounds need to be compatible with the substrate material, whether concrete, wood, or another surface. Factors like moisture levels, porosity, and existing coatings or contaminants must be evaluated to determine the appropriate self-leveler.

2. Intended Use and Traffic Levels

For high-traffic commercial or industrial environments, the self-leveler needs to be able to withstand heavy foot traffic, rolling loads, and potential impacts. These types of spaces, such as retail stores, warehouses, or manufacturing facilities, require a more robust and durable self-leveling compound.

Beyond just traffic levels, the intended use of the space can also influence the necessary performance characteristics of the self-leveler. For example, in areas that may be exposed to chemicals, oils, or other potentially damaging substances, such as commercial kitchens or laboratories, the self-leveler should have superior chemical resistance to prevent degradation or discoloration.

3. Thickness Requirements

Some self-levelers are best suited for thin applications, typically ranging from 1/8 to 1/2 inch, while others can be applied in thicker builds, up to 1-2 inches or more, to address more substantial substrate irregularities or larger voids.

The self-leveler&#;s ability to maintain a smooth, uniform surface finish, regardless of the applied thickness, is crucial. Inconsistencies or imperfections in the surface finish can negatively impact the final floor appearance.

Thicker self-leveling applications may require specialized equipment and installation techniques, such as larger pumps or mixing apparatus, to ensure a consistent and well-blended mixture. The curing time and drying rates may also differ for thicker builds compared to thinner applications.

4. Chemical Exposure

Spaces like commercial kitchens, laboratories, manufacturing facilities, automotive repair shops, and pharmaceutical production areas are examples where chemical exposure is a significant concern. Self-levelers with poor chemical resistance may degrade, discolor, or break down prematurely when exposed to these harsh chemicals, compromising the integrity and longevity of the flooring system.

In contrast, self-levelers with more basic cement or calcium-based compositions may be more susceptible to chemical attack, leading to surface deterioration, pitting, or other visual and structural issues over time.

5. Curing Time and Installation Logistics

The curing time of a self-leveling compound directly impacts the timeline and workflow of the flooring installation project. Faster-curing self-levelers can allow for quicker turnaround times and faster access to the finished floor, which is especially beneficial in commercial or high-traffic settings where downtime is limited.

Some self-levelers cure and dry within hours, while others may take a full day or longer to fully cure. The curing time can be influenced by factors such as the product&#;s formulation, the thickness of the application, and environmental conditions like temperature and humidity. Selecting a self-leveler with an appropriate curing time is essential for ensuring the project stays on schedule and meets the client&#;s timeline requirements.

6. Type of Professionals

When choosing a self-leveling compound, evaluate the expertise and reputation of the self-leveling company or flooring professionals you plan to work with. Look for a provider with extensive experience in projects similar to yours, whether commercial, industrial, or residential. This ensures they have the necessary knowledge and skills to deliver a high-quality installation that meets your specific requirements.

Also, it&#;s important to select a self-leveling company with a proven track record of quality workmanship, reliable service, and a commitment to addressing any issues that may arise during or after the installation process. The availability of warranties or guarantees offered by the self-leveling company can also provide an extra layer of assurance and peace of mind should any unforeseen challenges occur.

Southside Concrete Polishing is a reputable company that offers a wide range of self-leveling compound solutions and expert installation services. Our team of experienced professionals can assist you in selecting the right product and provide a seamless installation process tailored to your project&#;s needs. You can reach out to us to discuss your self-leveling compound requirements and receive a personalized recommendation and quote. 

When would you use a rapid-setting self-leveler?

You would use a rapid-setting self-leveler when you need a quick turnaround, such as in renovation projects or commercial spaces that need to be back in service quickly. The rapid-setting nature of these products allows for a much faster curing time compared to standard self-leveling compounds, enabling you to get the floor ready for the next stage of the project in a shorter timeframe.

How do you ensure proper mixing and application of self-leveling compounds?

To ensure proper mixing and application of self-leveling compounds, you must adhere to the manufacturer&#;s instructions, use the correct equipment, and have experienced installers performing the work.

Carefully following the manufacturer&#;s guidelines for mixing ratios, water addition, and mixing time is essential to achieving the desired consistency and performance of the self-leveling compound. Using the recommended mixing equipment, such as a drill-mounted paddle mixer, helps to thoroughly blend the components and minimize the introduction of air bubbles.

Can self-leveling compounds be colored or customized?

Yes, some self-leveling compounds can be colored or customized to achieve specific aesthetic goals. Manufacturers often offer the ability to tint the self-leveling product with pigments or add decorative aggregates to the mix.

Tinting the self-leveling compound allows you to match or complement the space&#;s desired color scheme, providing design flexibility. The addition of decorative aggregates, such as colored quartz or metallic flakes, can also create unique visual effects and textures within the finished floor.

Can self-leveling compounds be used over existing flooring materials?

Yes, in many cases, self-leveling compounds can be used over existing flooring materials, but it is important to properly prepare the surface and ensure compatibility with the existing flooring.

Before applying a self-leveling compound over an existing floor, it is crucial to thoroughly inspect the condition of the existing flooring and ensure it is well-bonded to the substrate. Any loose, damaged, or unsuitable flooring materials should be removed.

The surface of the existing flooring must also be properly prepared, often by mechanical means such as grinding or shot blasting, to create a rough, porous profile that will allow the self-leveling compound to adhere effectively. Applying a suitable primer or bonding agent may also be necessary to ensure a strong bond between the self-leveling compound and the existing floor.

View Full Version : recommend need for self leveling compound

Yutaka

Hi

i am trying to level a room of 100 sqft and laying 24x24 tile
as i digging through the forum i know the floor has to be dead flat
so i assuming self leveling compound could help

i have tried use LevelQuik RS Self-Leveling Underlayment 22.7kg from homedepot but it's quick dry it's dry up before it can spread out

someone told me use mapei from rona or lowes
MAPEI 50-lb Self-Leveler Plus

my question is

1.the mapei good ? i dont want my floor getting thicker if mapei doesnt work out again

2.different brand of self leveling will have different flatness?

3.please recommend some other brand that easier to work with or have better result

i live in north america homedepot rona lowes are the stores

Thanks

Sponsored Links

cx

Welcome, Andy. :)

You do understand that your tiles don't care at all whether your floor is level, they care only that it is flat, yes?

We need to know more about what kind of structure you're pouring your SLC over to know if it even qualifies for a ceramic tile installation.

1. MAPEI products are fine, but there is nothing at all wrong with the Custom products, either. There is also a LevelQuick ES version of their SLC. The E is for extended time. More time to work with it and for it to flow to "self-level."

2. No, flat is flat. Applied correctly, per the manufacturer's instructions, any of the self-leveling products will produce a flat substrate.

3. See #1. And there are other brands out there.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Yutaka

it's a concrete slab i am working on
yes i cannot find any ES version of level quick as homedepot only sell RS one

in my area all the SLC are around the same price 38~43
and level quick actually the most expensive here

i am just afraid if i mess up again with SLC my floor will be higher

so i want make sure everything before i do 2nd time

Tool Guy - Kg

Welcome to the forum, Andy. :wave:

In addition to answering CX's question about what you've got for a structure...

Please describe all the steps you took from prepping to your final pour to see if we can spot any parts that could use help. We're here to help, so tell us what you've got and ask as many questions as you like.

:)

Yutaka

ok this is the steps i will do on my 2nd pour
as cx mention mapei and all other SLC are the same
so i will just get mapei as this is the only one i know that arent quick set and i can get it easy in my area

step
1. get all my area clean and no dust
2. if there is prime for mapei i will use it (not sure if they have )
3. mix it with water as manufacture instruction i think it's 5L water for 50LB bag
then pour it through out the area

not sure what i miss but my question is

1. if i cant find any prime for mapei (is it necessary for me to put before the pour ) or i can use other brand like LevelQuik

2. almost all the instruction not mention how much water need for how much thickness
llike 5L for 50lb is how thick
if i only need 1mm to 2mm?

sorry if my question is dumb

Kman

1. You definitely need the primer. Don't use SLC without it.

2. Most of those products have a coverage chart (Mapei has one here on page 3 (http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Self-Leveler_Plus_EN_lr.pdf)). They'll probably all fall in that same range, however, it's better to be safe than sorry. Buy a little more than you need, as long as you can return unopened bags. All the pouring needs to be done as quickly as possible, so you don't want to have to stop and go back to the store for more.

Regarding SLC in general: It's not as simple as mixing it up and pouring it out on the floor. While you don't want to be pushing it all over the place, it does take a little "coaxing" to get it into the right places sometimes. Also, depending on how much you mix up, it might be best to have a helper there to do the mixing while you pour.

The person doing the mixing should start with plenty of water on hand, several buckets, a measuring container for the water, and a set of scales if less than one bag might get mixed at any time.

cx

as cx mention mapei and all other SLC are the same Nope, not at all what CX said, Andy. :) What CX said was: Applied correctly, per the manufacturer's instructions, any of the self-leveling products will produce a flat substrate.

Please pay attention to what Kevin is telling you. And if you can find a manufacturer's video of installing the product it will probably help you a good deal.

Yutaka

Thanks for reply

and about the thickness

if manufacture only list 3mm to cover 48 sqft and 6mm for 24 sqft
is it just a ratio?

so i can do 96 sqft for 1.5mm ?

Kman

That would seem to be the case.

MAPEI - Technical Service

Here is more information on Self Leveler Plus:

http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Self-Leveler_Plus_EN_lr.pdf

It does recommend our Primer T before pouring:

http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Primer_T_EN_lr.pdf

I would recommend having someone to help you mix, pour, and flatten the self leveler. Even though you're working in a small area, it's usually a two person job. Here are some videos on the topic of self leveling that will help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rxnwWWn9sQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeAwBZ-moFU

Good luck with your project, give us a call if you need any additional info.

nelsonkoehn

I think you may be asking a bit much to only pour 1.5 mm. The slc needs a minimum thickness just for it to 'flow' like it needs to for its leveling action. I haven't worked just a lot with it, but when I have tried going to thin it gave me problems, didn't flatten out. It seems to me that the moisture in a really thin layer gets pulled out very quickly, not leaving time for it to 'level'.

Yutaka

thanks for all the help i will give another try this weekend

ya i might just do min 3mm
hopefully it's 3mm from lowest spot not highest spot

Yutaka

Hi

please help me check the steps for 24x24 porcelain tile isntall with 1/16" of grout line

1. it's first floor of concrete slab and already done SLC (hopefully this is flat enough for 24x24)

2. use CUSTOM BUILDING PRODUCTS FlexBond LFT Crack Prevention Medium Bed Mortar White with 1/2" square notch trowel

3. apply on floor then back butter the tile before putting on

4. using tile level system and put in as in picture

please let me know if i missed anything

and my question is

a. is my thin set good for this job or i should use other one (please recommend)

b. after back butter and put on the floor do press down make sure fully contacted or just leave it so there is trowel line?

since they need good coverage of mortar is it better press down ?
but the trowel line might be gone

the old tile i took out they all have the trowel line
is there any reason of trowel line? like let air circulate?

this is confused me

c. can i apply the grout 2 days after?

Thanks

Kman

Hello, Andy.

Please keep all questions related to this project on this thread. That way all the history is in one place, and questions and answers aren't duplicated.

The standard LFT is about half the price of the crack prevention mortar. Since you're only doing 100 square feet, it's not like you'd be spending a lot extra, so it's really up to you.

Since you're using a leveling system, you don't want to push the tiles in as you set them. Once you get the clips in underneath the tile, they'll be pushed down when you finish with the caps.

Two days should be plenty long to wait before grouting.

Yutaka

sorry kman i am not fully understand
you said tile will be pushed with the levelling system

but isnt the system just level the tile beside wont push down the tiles?

i was wondering about the gap that notch trowel made should be push out or leave it

Kman

You'll want the thinset in full contact with the back of the tile. It doesn't necessarily mean pushing it down as far as it will go. The leveling system will hold the tile at the proper height so that they're all at the same level. That may mean some tile have better contact than others. You can push the tile into the thinset before or after you set the leveling pieces, just understand that the tile will be pushed up or down a little as needed to get them level.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Self-Leveling Compound Manufacturer. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Yutaka

so i bought 5 bags for 200 sq/ft
however i think because i have 4 area need to do
i end up not enough ( thought one extra bag is enough )
so i have a little area not covered as in pic
since it's the corner with low traffic area

1. just put more thin set in that area when i install tile? (24x24 tile with Medium Bed Mortar )

2. buy another bag and fill the spot?

also if the area is no traffic is the flatness matters for the large tile?

Thanks

Kman

Flatness always matters. :)

Probably the cheapest and easiest fix for that little spot is to find you a small bag of floor patch. Make sure it's cementitious and not gypsum-based. You can carefully trowel it over that area. Most of them have only about 15 minutes of work time, so work quickly.

There's really not a scale to your picture, so I don't know exactly how much you'll need, but it doesn't look like much. You can probably cover it with a 10lb bag easily, unless it's more area than I'm thinking.

Yutaka

ok i will buy another bag and fill the spot

kman can you please explain why the flatness in no traffic area matter (i mean 1/8" difference in maybe 1 feet and covered with more thinset mortar )

for my understanding no traffic is like the tile laying on ground before the install they shouldnt break

or the traffic isnt the issue

jadnashua

You need to attempt to achieve 100% coverage on the back of the tile. At least 100% coverage on all of the edges with no significant gaps in the rest of the tile. To keep lippage down, it really helps to have the area quite flat when dealing with larger format tile. There's a limit on how thick you can get the mortar, so the combination of keeping the top flat with no lippage, keeping the thickness of the mortar within reason, and preventing the tile from sinking all point to trying to get the floor as flat as possible prior to adding the tile. It also takes more skill to keep the floor flat when setting the tile if it isn't already.

Yutaka

thanks jim
i am using levelling system so the lippage shouldnt be a big issue

Kman

If you look at the instructions for the leveling systems, you'll see that they still require the floor to be flat within tolerances.

The leveling system is just to fine tune the tile so that there's no lippage, and to hold them in place til the thinset mortar sets up.

Yutaka

is 1/8" 10 feet and 1/16" 2 feet the minimum for the tolerance for 24x24 tile?

anything beyond that wont work for 24x24 tile for sure?

cx

That is the tile industry standard, Andy, and it'll sure help you set those big tiles a lot more easily, lippage control tool or no.

Yutaka

i am just afraid there will be big issue after the tile install (crack )

i check couple area after SLC
they didnt really meet that standard

what's the best way to fix them

Kman

When you say that didn't meet standard, do you mean it's out of plane more than what's recommended?

Yutaka

Ya
I found there is couple spot didn't meet 1/8 2 feet and 1/16 10 feet

Kman

If they're high, they can be ground off, if they're low they can be filled in. This is assuming they're well-bonded to the floor below.

Yutaka

i will try my best
will i able to put more thin set when i install tiles for those low and high spot?

Kman

You can, you just need to be careful not to "overfill" using thinset. It's not really made to be built up too thick. For a depression that's more than 1/4", I'd recommend a floor patch that you can spread with a trowel.

Yutaka

can you please recommend the brand for floor patch ?
is premixed ok?

Kman

You don't want to use the pre-mixed stuff in this application.

This one (http://www.lowes.com/pd_--___?productId=&pl=1&Ntt=floor+patch) and this one (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=--&langId=-1&storeId=&productId=&catalogId=&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1) are typically what you'll find at Lowe's.

This one (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-547-25-lb-Universal-Patch-and-Skimcoat-/) is at Home Depot, and the one I normally use.

Tiger Mountain Tile Inc

I have the Planipatch, in Kevin's link above, on a project right now and it works well. It's my first time using it and I think it's great.

Yutaka

ok thanks i will try to find as i live in canada
doesnt have that many lowes here

Yutaka

what's the best way to grind the high spot
i went to the home depot they said they dont have any tool rental for that

Kman

And angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel. There's grinder you can get pretty cheap, the wheel, not so much.

Yutaka

After few days of grinding and levelling

is 1/8" 4 feet good enough for tile?

and for small area should i cut the tile first and layout instead cutting it while laying ?

Kman

Andy, I don't find the dimensions of the room you're working on in this thread, but since it's 100 square feet, it's likely the room is more than 4' wide in both directions. Since you're setting 24x24 tile, you want the floor to have no more than 1/8" deviation from plane in 10'. It sounds like you still have a high spot or low spot that needs to be addressed.

Yutaka

sorry got few different places

the 100 sq/ft is the kitchen
the washroom only about 25 sq/ft
since the area is small so i only use 4ft leveller check
and the max deviation for 4ft is 1/8"
if that still enough i will keep trying

Kman

1/8" in 4 feet is more than what is recommended. Nothing says you can't tile over it, but you're just more likely to have problems getting the tile to stay flat, and can often lead to lack of good mortar coverage.

The flatter the floor, the easier time you'll have setting large format tile over it.

Yutaka

what's the minimum for 4 ft
i will keep doing the grinding until meet the requirement
as i am not a pro tile guy i want easier to lay them

and should i cut them first as i have many cut in small room afraid the thinset gonna dry up

Kman

If all I had was a 4' level to check for flatness, I'd probably want it to be within 1/16" or less.

You could cut your tile as you go along, or if you want you could lay all the full pieces in one day, the come back the next day to do the cut pieces.

On the second day, you could cut all your pieces, lay them in place without thinset, then after they are all cut, mix up thinset and set them in place. I've done it that way a number of times to reduce the chance of thinset drying up before I get to use it.

Yutaka

thanks alot
thought i have to have everything done in one day
if i do them in 2 different day
for the thinset part can i do half of bag and mix half the water that as instruction says?
like one bag is 50lb mix with 5.2L to 5.75L water
i go 25 lb with 2.5 L?

Kman

You can mix as much or as little as you want, as long as you keep the powder-to-water ratio the same.

What you might also want to look at is the instructions for your leveling system, if there are any, regarding what steps to take when you stop in the middle of a project. Because you would be coming back to pick up the next day, the tile will be more or less set and not adjustable, so in most cases you wouldn't leave the leveling clips in place.

I use the LASH system and when I'm finished for the day, I remove any clips that I haven't used, and the next day I start laying tile, I don't use the clips for the tile adjacent to that last row. I think the Tuscan Leveling System recommends to take the straps out, but replace them the next day.

Yutaka

for the kitchen

what's the best way to do

lay the tile after the kitchen cabinet or before install the cabinet

Kman

I prefer to install tile before the cabinets. It solves a few other problems, like the height issue for your dishwasher, and makes a much cleaner look than tiling up to the cabinets.

Additionally, if at some point in the future you decide to change the layout of the cabinet, you don't have to worry about having to add/remove tile to make it fit.

Yutaka

thanks kevin

i have read other post about fusion pro grout
still not sure is good or not
are those no seal require better?

Kman

In my opinion, any product that doesn't require maintenance is worth it.

Fusion Pro, like epoxy grouts, do require more effort to install and clean up. But the extra amount of time and effort spent is less than what you'll spend re-sealing after the initial coat of sealer has worn off.

Same goes for the cost. The epoxy grouts and others like them do cost more, but it's a one-time cost, and since you don't have to buy expensive sealers every few years, you're really saving money in the long run.

Yutaka

what's the height people usually do for the baseboard tile in bathroom
Thanks

Kman

It's whatever height you want it to be. No rules.

Yutaka

after finished kitchen and laundry room
i have entrance and bathroom left

i am just wondering am i able to tile all the way from entrance into the bathroom by putting a big 24x24 under the bathroom door ? or i should at door size tile (wont look good tho )
as i saw there was wood before i pour the SLC ( now it covered with SLC)

just dont want any issue in the future

Kman

Andy, I'm not understanding what it is you're asking. Maybe you could reword your question and post a picture of what it is you're asking about.

Yutaka

sorry about that
in the picture the red area originally was wood (all others are concrete slab)
now it covered with a layer of SLC

just want make sure i can just put a big 24x24 right on top of it and wont have any issue in the future

cx

Andy, I don't see that we have any information on the construction of that floor. How did you end up with two concrete slabs (SOG I'll presume) separated by wood framing?

And you poured only a very thin layer of SLC across both concrete areas and the wood framed area, too?

Yutaka

i am doing the entire apartment and all the place are concrete slab

just this door they separate by wood

yes only red area was wood inside and outside of that door are slab

yes only thin layer of SLC

as this is my first time tile not sure if that's ok to do it

however before i the SLC these places are tiles too ( 12x12 )

and now i am putting in 24x24
not sure if i can just put right no top of that red area

cx

If you were to put a geographic location into your User Profile, Andy, it might be helpful in answering some of your questions.i am doing the entire apartment and all the place are concrete slabIs this a ground floor or above?

Without more information on your floor construction, I'd say absolutely not ti try to simply tile over that threshold. You must provide at least a single movement accommodation joint and that would actually require some sort of crack isolation membrane covering at least the width of a full tile on both sides of the doorway. At least. If you can provide more information, my opinion could change, but I doubt it.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Yutaka

sorry for the miss info

it's first floor of apartment
and concrete foundation but wood framing
the wood might be the door only ? nothing to do with the joint? because all other area are slabs

originally was tiled over that's why i never have this concern when i start
but the tile was small one 12x12

now i am putting in 24x24
i afraid of crack in future

if i need put membrane what's the best way to fix it now

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