CH Anchor Complete Systems

More than 221,000 anchors sold. This way of installing base anchors will save you time AND money.

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LESS HASSLE SAVES TIME.
The CH System allows you to install a CH base anchor in about 5 minutes. You no longer have to pour concrete, dig a hole and hope that nothing happens to it that requires that you to do it all over again &#; things like erosion, freezing & thawing, and, worst of all, hitting the anchor with an implement). If this happens to CH Anchors, it takes only a few minutes with the CH Driver to re-position and you&#;re back playing ball.

LONG-LASTING DURABILITY.
CH Anchors are made out of heavy duty steel. CH Anchors last 5-10 times longer than the traditional anchors. The CH Base Anchor and CH driver system is built to last for many years of hard use.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Anchoring Mesh. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

SAVE MONEY! 
The time you save using the CH System is enough to outweigh the cost of doing it the concrete way &#; TIME IS MONEY!  Additionally, when you consider the life expectancy of the CH Anchor is 5-10 times longer, the decision is much easier.  Also, remember that once you have the CH Driver you don&#;t need to purchase another one because you can use it over and over.  All you need to do after the first CH Driver purchase is purchase additional CH Anchors.

Compatibility: CH Anchors are designed to fit Hollywood (1-1/2 inch) and Bolco (1 inch) standard bases.

• INFO SHEET &#; CH Anchor Complete System

The floor is sq ft in an equipment repair shop. Plan is for 2" of foam, 6" of concrete with fiberglass rebar on 18" centers on chairs.

I have stapled the pex to the foam in the past and picked up a stapler on ebay fairly cheap. It is about $.10 a sq ft more to use 6x6 wire mesh to tie the pipe to. One advantage I see is even without lifting up the mesh, the pipe is at least 1/4" off the foam rather than touching it. I'm still debating between 1/2 and 5/8 pipe. but either way, will probably be on 12" centers.

Should I try to hold the mesh up an inch?


Background of the project.

I



I did a search but didn't find much, feel free to pass on old posts if it has been covered.

I'm looking for opinions on pex install using foam staples vs tying to wire mesh.The floor is sq ft in an equipment repair shop. Plan is for 2" of foam, 6" of concrete with fiberglass rebar on 18" centers on chairs.I have stapled the pex to the foam in the past and picked up a stapler on ebay fairly cheap. It is about $.10 a sq ft more to use 6x6 wire mesh to tie the pipe to. One advantage I see is even without lifting up the mesh, the pipe is at least 1/4" off the foam rather than touching it. I'm still debating between 1/2 and 5/8 pipe. but either way, will probably be on 12" centers.Should I try to hold the mesh up an inch?Background of the project. posted about the building in question a few years ago when I replaced the boiler. It is a repair shop on a farm. I'm working on a plan to remove this steel building and build a larger one on the same foot print. The existing slab doesn't have near enough pipe install, but I'm going to leave the slab alone and add more concrete on 3 sides. My plan is to over build with extra pipe to over compensate some. I'm not concerned about uneven floor temps. Building will be supplemented with radiant tube heat as required.I did a search but didn't find much, feel free to pass on old posts if it has been covered.

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